The drywall trade is one of the easiest construction trades to enter — a truck, a few tools, and a couple of weekends learning to spread mud is enough to start collecting checks. That low barrier means the Longview market has hundreds of people calling themselves drywall contractors, and the quality range runs from genuinely skilled craftsmen down to people who will leave the job after one coat of mud. Here's how to tell the difference before you sign anything.
Question 1: Are You Licensed and Insured? Can I See the Paperwork?
Texas does not require a state license for drywall work itself, but a legitimate contractor will carry general liability insurance ($1M minimum, $2M is standard for residential) and workers' compensation on every crew member. Ask for current certificates of insurance and verify them — the COI is one phone call to the insurance agent. Anyone who waves the question away or says 'I have it but it's in the truck' is telling you they don't have it.
Question 2: What Finish Level Will You Deliver, and Will You Specify It in Writing?
Drywall finish levels are defined by the Gypsum Association in standard GA-214 — Levels 1 through 5. Production builders typically work at Level 3 or 4. Custom work is Level 4 or 5. The contractor who quotes you 'Level 4 standard' without explaining what that means or putting it in the contract is leaving themselves room to deliver Level 3 work and call it Level 4 at the walkthrough.
Question 3: Who Will Actually Be On Site, and Who Owns the Warranty?
Many drywall contractors are really estimators who sub the work to whichever crew is available that week. Crew quality varies wildly. Ask: do you have W-2 employees or do you subcontract? If subcontracted, what's the policy for callbacks if the crew did the work badly? A contractor with their own employees can stand behind the work; a broker can blame the crew.
Question 4: Can I See Three Recent Local References?
Local matters. A reference from Tyler or Marshall is more useful than a five-star Google review from an out-of-state visitor. Call at least one reference and ask: did they show up when they said they would, did they clean up daily, did the final invoice match the estimate, and would you hire them again? Three local references is the minimum; a contractor who can't produce them either hasn't done much work or has done a lot of work people don't want to recommend.
Question 5: What's Included and What's Not in This Quote?
A complete drywall quote should specify: thickness and type of drywall (1/2 inch standard vs 5/8 Type X), finish level, texture type, primer (or 'paint-ready' if not included), debris removal, warranty terms, and payment schedule. Bids that just say 'install drywall - $8,000' are setting you up for change orders.
Red Flags That Mean Walk Away
Cash-only requirement. Demand for more than 30% deposit before work starts. Refusal to put scope in writing. 'Verbal warranty.' Pressure to sign today for a discount that expires tomorrow. Permanent address that's a PO box or a residential apartment. No physical business location and no truck signage. Pricing dramatically below the market range without explanation — drywall labor and materials cost what they cost, and 50% below market means corners are being cut somewhere you'll discover later.
What a Good Quote Looks Like
Itemized scope by room. Specified finish level, texture, and primer. Clear payment schedule (typically 10% deposit, progress payments tied to milestones, 10% holdback until punch list complete). Two-year minimum workmanship warranty in writing. Current insurance certificates attached. Real business address, real truck signage, real local references.